It's windy on Jeju. The heat is on under the floor of the caddies' room, where all of the women padding around in bobby socks can speak Chinese, Korean, Japanese and a little English. In a sweet display on the first tee, they lead their golfers in toe-touches and other twisting calisthenics. On the greens, they mark the balls, clean them and put them back. In the "shade houses" (mid-course refreshment stands) they drop the hoods of their fur-lined parkas, shake the morning out of their hair, decline the offer of eel or crab and head out again maybe with just a cup of tea and a slice of squid pizza.